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Direct Lake
(Click here for more current PDF)
This section of the Guide was written by Brian
McMillan.
Map Lount Lake 52 L/1, co-ordinates 107455.
Direct Lake Cliff is the "largest" cliff found
as yet in the Kenora area; picture Gooseneck times five! Approximately
170 ft at the high point, the cliff extends for a full kilometer, with
half of the cliff in excess of 100 ft in height. As of this writing, many
unclimbed "classics" remain ripe for the picking.
Direct Lake is fine granite crack climbing in a
remote location. Trips are best planned for long weekends, as the journey
can be fairly time consuming (5 hrs from Wpg). A canoe or small boat is
required to access the cliff. Approach on the Lount Lake Road as for Pic
Lake, except branch left towards the Quarry at the 3 way fork 2 km past
Panorama Cliff. Follow this road for approximately 2 km, bearing R at each
new branch. Follow the first narrow road ascending to the R. This road
winds for approximately 3 km, passing below a large beaver dam & crossing
a timber bridge, before ending beside a trail to the lake. High ground
clearance (pick-up or 4WD) vehicles are recommended. The cliff is 3 km
away at the West end of the lake, but is not visible from the landing at
the East end of the lake. Excellent camping can be found on a point 600m
to the NNE of the landing. Small parties can find good camping on the large
island immediately East of the cliff. A smaller cliff (excellent large
crystal granite, but heavy lichen) can be found on the W side of the Lake's
N arm, past the rock frequented by transient birds (birdshit-rock). Alternative
access can be gained by canoe/portage from Pic Lake, SE through Axis Lake,
to the NE corner of Direct lake.
Most route locations are given relative to the
usual landing area; a prominent arete called the "Ship's Prow", at the
left end of the cliff overlooking the Lake. Boat access only.
Route Descriptions (L-R).
Exit Route
From the Ship's Prow, scramble left along the
base of the cliff. Do not ascend ramps along the cliff-side. The ER begins
100 ft left of the blocky stream crossing, & is an easy scramble at
an obvious break in the cliff (approx 10-15 minutes from Ship's Prow).
Eagle's Corner 5.6, 30 m
Ascend the right facing corner ascending the left
of the slab above blocky stream crossing.
FA Jake & Cindy Klassen - 1998 Aug
I'm Not Good With Names 5.7, 30 m
Ascend the left facing corner on the right of
the same slab.
FA Jake Klassen, Mike Shale - 1997 June 30
Pooh Pirates from Pic Lake 5.10a, 15 m TR
Midway between the SP & the Creek, 30' left
of a rounded outside corner. Ascend a clean crack through a small over-hang.
Continue up a R facing inside corner to ledges.
Rob Hester, Bob Grabowski, Lyle Rotter, Jake Klassen,
Brian McMillan - 1997 June 29
Shitty Chicken Gang Bang 5.7, 23 m
A R facing corner. Climb behind a large block
(cave) at 30', the climb continues above through a chimney. Watch for loose
blocks near the top.
Bob Grabowski, Lyle Rotter - 1997 June 29
Smells Like Chicken, Tastes Like Fish 5.8, 5.9,
10 m TR
Side by side climbs. Ascending either side of
a large triangular block nestled in a corner. Routes meet at the top behind
a tall pine tree.
Dave Kenefick, Bob Grabowski - 1996 Sept
Cannibal Soup 5.10b, 24 m TR
First obvious climb 60-80 ft to the left of the
SP. Start up the open-book. Move left & up thin cracks & face for
15 ft (crux) to a ledge. Lie-back above & finish up the chimney.
Bob Grabowski, Brian McMillan, Lyle Rotter - 1997
June 30
Ship's Prow Unclimbed, 24 m
Follow the obvious line to the R of the Prow.
All initial attempts have been repulsed (wasps, injuries etc)
The Vase Unclimbed, 24 m
Follow the obvious 20 ft R of the Ship's Prow.
Action In-Direct 5.10a, 24 m TR
The first route ascended at the cliff following
it's discovery. Start 60 ft R of the SP. Ascend the blocky corner. Traverse
left and up along the left trending flake to the top. A direct start may
be possible.
Dave Kenefick, Bob Grabowski, Brian McMillan -
1996 Aug
When the Boat Comes In 5.10c, 33 m TR
45 ft R of Action In-Direct. Ascend a R facing
corner. Climb onto the arete. Follow the overhanging crack to the top.
Dave Kenefick, Bob Grabowski, Brian McMillan -
1996 Sept
When the Fat Lady Sings 5.11b, 37 m TR
140 ft R of SP. Climb the obvious chimney. Traverse
R out the top of the chimney, & follow the sustained overhanging crack
to the top. The most sustained climb established to date.
Dave Kenefick, Bob Grabowski - 1996 Sept
Back-door Corner 5.10a , 53 m
Get in your boat, & head R to the middle of
the cliff past the large ramps & ledges. BDC starts 100 ft left of
the large overhang at the high point on the cliff, & follows the big
R facing , R trending inside corner. Tie your boat up & scramble up
the lower ledges to begin the climb at the base of the corner. Follow the
corner to the left trending crack (crux).
TR: Bob Grabowski, Rob Hester, Brian McMillan
1997 July, FA: Jake & Cindy Klassen 1998 Aug
Dildo Debutantes Direct 5.10a/b, 50 m TR
20 ft L of low large overhangs. Start up a blocky
corner. Move left along undercling onto the slabby face. Sustained face
moves on small crystals up the clean streak to the top.
Rob Hester, Brian McMillan 1998 Aug
Dildo Debutantes 5.6, 50 m
Start as for DDD, but continue straight up corner.
Move L horizontally across crack. Follow grooves to the top.
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt
Narrows Lily
Pond Direct Lake Legal
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