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Experimental Lakes Area
Google map of area!
The Experimental Lakes Area (ELA) is an exceptionally
beautiful wilderness area located about 50 km southeast of Kenora: roughly
the area bounded by Dryberry, Eagle, and Dogtooth lakes. Although ELA is
no farther from Winnipeg than the Gooseneck Rocks at Minaki, climbing here
is a much more complex endeavour: The primitive roads pose considerable
risk to passenger vehicles, and travel by canoe is required to get to many
cliffs. This makes day trips from Winnipeg impractical and distinguishes
ELA from other climbing areas in the Kenora region.
ELA's strange name is derived from the scientific
research station that is located here. During the early 1960s, the rapidly
deteriorating condition of the Great Lakes (especially Lake Erie) caused
widespread societal concern. As part of a binational agreement with the
U.S., the Canadian Government agreed to investigate the causes of this
"eutrophication" by experimentally manipulating whole lakes. Of the many
sites that were considered for this work, ELA was chosen because of its
proximity to Winnipeg, and because it contains many small, deep, clean
lakes. These lakes owe their existence to the excellent pink granite that
is found in the ELA region.
The first ELA rock climbers were personnel stationed
at the ELA camp, who top-roped a few easy routes at Lake 123 and Lake 262
in 1973-75. In 1979 Winnipeg climbers visited, establishing hard leads
on Hillock and Teggau cliffs. This sparked a flurry of intense activity
in the early 1980s. Interest waned in the mid and late '80s but has recently
picked up again. A tremendous number of lines are still untouched but leaders
should remember that there is no organized rescue service in this remote
wilderness area. In case of emergency, helicopter and fixed-wing floatplane
service is available from Kenora (about 1/2 hour away by air); the ELA
field camp (G.R. 474008) is staffed year-round has a radio telephone.
Access
Only 5% of the more than 1000 lakes at the ELA
region have officially recognized names; the smaller lakes are identified
by the numbers arbitrarily assigned to them by the research team that initially
surveyed the area. The map at the front of this section identifies all
lakes that are specifically mentioned in the text below. This map, however,
does not contain sufficient information to find the cliffs: Unless you
are accompanied by a knowledgeable local, you will also need the 1:50,000
scale topographic maps Dryberry Lake (52 F/12) and Feist Lake (52 F/13),
available from the Canada Map Office, 602 Booth St., Ottawa.
ELA is 300 km east of Winnipeg, Manitoba (about
a 3.5 hour drive). There are two roads in ELA: The Highwind Lake Road (also
called the 314 Road) goes east from Ontario Highway 71, 20 km south of
where 71 meets the Trans-Canada Highway. The Pine Road goes south from
the Trans-Canada Highway about 60 km east of Kenora (it starts precisely
2.5 km east of the well-marked Gordon Lake Road turnoff) and has a large
Experimental Lakes Area sign at its entrance; an Ontario Ministry of Natural
Resources travel permit, available only for official ELA business, is required
to use this road. These roads are connected, but a locked gate on the road
connecting them prevents through traffic. The 314 Road is badly deteriorated
east of Ethelma Lake; only high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicles should
attempt to go farther (you are warned!) Final access to many cliffs is
by canoe. Access times are given for the time taken for a party familiar
with the route, from the car to the cliff.
Since there is little order to the landscape, cliffs
are described in approximate order of climbing interest. The way one normally
approaches a cliff determines the order in which routes are described (right
to left vs. left to right; directions assume that you are facing the cliff).
Directions for descent routes assume that you are facing away from the
cliff.
Lake 123
This cliff is located on the southeast corner of
a small lake (G.R. 377989). In spite of being only 30 m high and a few
hundred meters in width, it is the best climbing site so far discovered
in the ELA region. Every 10 m or so the steep face is broken by sharp-edged
cracks that run for the whole height of the cliff. Many fine climbs follow
these marvelous cracks and demand sustained jamming, chimneying, and laybacking
(Jamming 101, Suzy, Under the Sword, Yosemite Prep, and Beaver Toe). Small
and rounded face holds provide excitement on other equally interesting
but more varied routes (Solid Geometry, Full Moon Coming, Chan-Balhum,
My Go Now).
Access starts at a portage trail at G.R. 378998
that leads south to Lake 122; it meets the road at the bottom of a short,
steep hill immediately opposite a small parking spot on the north side
of the road. The water level in L.122 has dropped about 3 m recently, exposing
a lot of previously submerged shoreline; this gives the lake a peculiar,
somewhat desolate, feeling. Continue around the east shore of L.122, scramble
up a hill, and follow the top of the ridge to the cliff. Alternatively--and
more elegantly--canoe across L.122 to a short portage at G.R. 376993 into
L.123 and canoe down to the far end of the lake to the cliff. Access time
20 minutes.
Large boulders at lake level below the huge overhang
on the main face provide easy access to the climbs and are also a convenient
place to enter the lake for a swim. A 3 m high flake of rock leaning against
the face about 50 m right of these boulders is an important feature for
locating several climbs which are not visible from the lake. There is an
exit route near the left end of the cliff which can be hard to find from
the top and tricky (5.1) even when you are on route. The right end of the
cliff is even more awkward but it is fun to explore the chimneys and caves
there. Generally it is most expedient to rappel from the large tree above
Full Moon Coming. Climbs are described from left to right.
Jamming 101 5.5, 15m *
A straightforward and recommended introduction
to the rock on this cliff. Start at the left end of the cliff at the point
where it meets the lake. Follow the crack.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Oct 7
Suzy 5.9, 26m *
An attractive meat grinder 10 m right of the exit
route near the left end of the cliff. Pitch 1. 17m. Wiggle up the left
leaning offwidth crack to the upside-down triangle under a roof. Follow
the crack through the roof (crux). Pitch 2. 9m. Continue up the narrow
chimney to a tree belay.
Aid (5.9/A1): Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Oct
7, Free: Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1984 Aug 26
Under the Sword 5.8, 24m **
Exceptionally classy. It starts 20 m right of
the exit route on the left end of the cliff below a 6 m high detached granite
finger. Pitch 1. 6m. Climb the left side of the granite finger and step
onto a large terrace. Pitch 2. 18m. Layback the right side of the huge
flake in the corner of the terrace directly under the cantilevered block
(it is quite solid). An awkward crack above the block leads to the top.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Sept 9
Yosemite Prep 5.9, 27m **
A strenuous and poorly protected gem that starts
on the right side of the 6 meter high detached granite finger. Pitch 1.
6m. Climb the right side of the granite finger and step onto the big terrace.
Pitch 2. 12m. (Crux) Climb the left side of the huge flake in the corner
and hand traverse left to a tree belay. Pitch 3. 9m. Follow the corner
to a tree.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee, Bob France - 1982 Sept
6
Raincheck 5.10, 24m
An intimidating line located in the inside corner
to the left of the low overhangs behind the lakeside boulders. It is a
good route that stays dry when the rest of the cliff is wet.
Aid (5.6/A1): Peter Aitchison, Everett Fee - 1982
May 29, Free: Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1984 Aug 26
Early Morning Madness 5.6, 15m
A curious, unsustained route that goes up the
left inside corner of the big square alcove behind the lakeside boulders.
Veer to the left at the top, taking care to not knock off the loose foothold.
The direct finish up the overhanging jam crack is 5.8.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1981 Sept 9
Autumn Glow 5.5, 15m
Memorable mainly for a weird body position at
the crux. It starts below the huge overhangs on the main face and follows
the corners and low angled slabs which trend to the left.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Sept 8
Suspended Animation 5.10d/5.11a, 30m
Goes up prominent cracks immediately under the
huge overhangs at the tallest part of the cliff. Pitch 1. 15m. Free climb
the vertical cracks to a ledge. Mixed aid and free moves lead up and right
past a thin flake and an unusual crack in the roof. Step above the overhang
to a hanging belay. Pitch 2. 15m. Follow an irregular (pegmatite) crack
and slabs to the top.
Aid (5.6/A2): Bob France, Everett Fee, Casey Shaw
- 1982 Sept 5, TR: Bob Grabowski, Corey McFarlan 1998 Sept
Solid Geometry 5.8, 34m ***
An elegant line of great character that follows
the obvious weakness through the overhangs on the main face. Start below
the crack on the right side of a steep ramp at the tallest part of the
cliff. Pitch 1. 18m. Climb to the top of a chest high flake 3 m beneath
the overhang. Traverse under the overhang (crux) and belay (hanging) at
a small stance just above. It was originally climbed in one pitch by using
two ropes and abandoning the rope that was used below the overhang once
above it. Pitch 2. 15m. Continue up the easy (5.4) crack or follow the
irregular crack to slabs (the more interesting option).
Everett Fee - 1981 July 19
Beaver Toe 5.6, 32m *
A complex and satisfying line that follows the
crack and chimney system to the right of the tallest part of the cliff.
The chimney at the top is prominent when viewed from the lake but is not
visible from the start. Pitch 1. 17m. Follow cracks, a narrow chimney and
steep sharp edged flakes to a stance below the main chimney. Pitch 2. 15m.
Climb the chimney and continue on through the boulders to the top. To avoid
rope drag above the chimney, climb the slab on the left.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1981 May 16
Everett's Error 5.7, 30m
An offwidth problem that can be hard on the knees
and forearms: wear appropriate clothing. Pitch 1. 17m. The first pitch
is the same as Beaver Toe. Pitch 2. 14m. The parallel vertical cracks at
the left of the belay are a challenging crux.
Everett Fee - 1981 May 16
The Bitter End 5.8, 27m
An innocent looking chimney which turns into a
flared overhanging horror. It starts 10 m left of the 5 m high flake.
Everett Fee - 1981 Aug 1
My Go Now 5.10b, 21m **
The cleanest line on the cliff. Start behind the
big flake and either jam up the crack in the corner or climb the flake
and traverse across to the right trending crack under the roof. A tantalizing
problem involving offhand jamming, awkward chimneying, and minimal footholds
lies ahead.
Aid (5.7/A2): Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Oct
7, Free: Casey Shaw, Everett Fee, Dirk Erkau - 1982 Sept 7
Wisdom Flake 5.10b, 20m ** TR
Follow a thin left-facing flake that starts 2
m left of Full Moon Coming for 7 m. The rest is thin face climbing.
Doug Orr - 1991 Sept 1
Full Moon Coming 5.7, 20m **
A fascinating, sustained route that starts 3 m
right of the 5 m high flake and follows the thin left trending crack.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1981 Sept 9
Complication 5.7, 17m
The easy-looking crack that goes straight up the
face a few steps to the right of Full Moon Coming. The crux is at the top.
Peter Aitchison, Everett Fee, Richard Tilley -
1982 May 29
Kuku Africa 5.5, 20m
Goes us the chimney in the dark inside corner
covered with lush moss at the bottom. The grade applies only if you have
long legs.
Everett Fee - 1981 May 16
Chan-Bahlum 5.9, 24m ***
An exacting and sustained crack and slab climb
on the right of a prominent outside corner; easily identified by the big
nose 2/3 of the way up. Named for a big-nosed king who reigned between
683 and 701 A.D. in Palenque, a Mayan ceremonial center in the Mexican
jungle.
Peter Aitchison, Everett Fee - 1982 May 29
Beginner's Chimney 5.4, 27m
An extensive boulder field begins about 50 m right
of the 5 m high flake. Just at this point is a cleft that goes up to a
chimney which is hard to see from below. Pitch 1. 9m. Climb the cleft to
a ledge and go up and left to an alcove. Pitch 2. 18m. Climb the chimney.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1981 Sept 8
Mind Riot 5.10c/d, 14m ***
Start in the corner under the big roof.
Climb up the cracks to a rest under the roof. Move out the left crack
through the roof. This wide overhanging offwidth tapers to nice hand
jams at the top.
Rob Hester, Bob Grabowski, Corey McFarlan, Jesse
?? - 1998 Sept
J.A.M., 5.10b 14m **
Start in a dihedral 7 m left of Composure. Climb
the corner crack through the roof on the right (crux).
Mike Baxter, Jake Klassen - 1990 Sept 3
Composure 5.6, 12m
A short but sustained route. It is the inside
corner full of chockstones just to the right of an impressive overhang
about 20 m from the right end of the cliff.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1981 Sept 8
Hillock
Lake
This large, unusually clear, anchor-shaped lake
is located about 18 km along 314 Road. Because it is easily accessible,
it is frequented by scuba divers and weekend campers. The great height
of the Main Cliff (about 60 m above lake level) provides a view that is
unequalled anywhere in the region.
Two cliffs close to Hillock Lake have seen climbing
activity: The Main Cliff is on the southeast side of the lake (G.R. 368990)
and is easily seen from the road at the point where it veers away from
the lake. It is best approached by canoe but can also be hiked to. In either
case, start from the campsite at G.R. 367999. Access time: 1/2 hour. The
smaller Bush Cliff is located at G.R. 363015 (about half-way between the
summer camp at the north end of the lake and the above-mentioned campsite).
Easiest access is by canoe; many years ago there was a logging trail that
led to the top of this cliff from the road, but it is probably badly overgrown
by now. Routes on both cliffs are described from left to right.
M A I N C L I F F
Mephisto 5.8, 24m *
A challenging route located about 1/3 of the way
from the left end of the cliff below a prominent overhang (there is a birch
tree 1/2 up the face). Climb the thin, slightly left-trending crack to
beneath the overhang. Traverse left and then up a crack to a ledge. Follow
the crack on the right to the top.
Doug Leonard, Bob France - 1982 Sept 11
Plum-Line 5.7, 26m *
This route ascends the obvious right-facing corner
7 m right of Mephisto. Pitch 1. 18m. Climb the crack to below the treed
ledge. Pitch 2. 8m. Chimney up the V-shaped slot and step to the left onto
another ledge. Move right above the slot and climb the short crack to the
top.
Bob France, Doug Leonard - 1982 Sept 11
Climax 5.8, 24m **
An excellent route with sustained climbing. Goes
up the left of the two obvious crack/chimneys in the middle section of
the cliff.
Peter Aitchison, Peter Gough - 1979
Chicken Shit 5.7, 27m *
An enjoyable climb on the right end of the cliff
just to the left of a gigantic flake. Move up the chimney, around the overhang
to the left, and up to a ledge below the crux (the leader stood in a sling
here).
Richard Tilley, Bob France - 1979
Moriah 5.7, 24m **
A sustained crack climb offering excellent positions.
Ascend the large broken crack 5 m inside the south arm of the immense U-shaped
grotto that cleaves the right end of the cliff.
Doug Leonard, Bob France - 1982 Sept 11
Victoria's Secret 5.5, 18m
Located at the back of the immense grotto at the
point where it turns sharply to the west. Follow the left-trending crack.
Doug Leonard, Caroline Marion, Lucille Doucette,
Everett Fee - 1991 May 18
B U S H C L I F F
Fear of Flying 5.7, 21m *
Delicate and sustained. One of the first obvious
lines past the large boulders near the left end of the cliff. Ascend the
vertical crack through a small treed ledge, and follow its continuation
to the left. Traverse left, underneath the overhand near the top, to a
large tree. Exit through broken ledges to the right.
Bob France, Anil Shukla, Peter Aitchison - 1983
June 9
Bunderoon Kaa Bageecha 5.7, 24m *
A good route located right of the cliff centre
near large overhangs near the top. Pitch 1. 8m. Climb the awkward offwidth
crack in a right-facing corner to gain the large ledge. Pitch 2. 17m. Move
to the right and ascend a vertical crack that later begins to angle to
the left. Traverse under the overhang near the top to a large unsteady
block that is essential for upward movement.
Anil Shukla, Peter Aitchison, Bob France - 1983
June 9
Lake 239
This small cliff is off the northeast shore of
L.239 (G.R. 483014). Because it is very close to the ELA field camp and
offers a variety of routes on good solid rock, it is an excellent place
to introduce beginners to rock climbing. The surrounding area, however,
is closed to the public and only ELA personnel may climb here.
Access starts at the Roddy portage on the northeast
corner of L.239. Follow a path that runs south (parallel to the shore)
past a small stream (weir) and you will see the cliff through the bush
on the left in a few minutes. Access time: 5 minutes. Descent from most
routes is by rappel but there is an exit route near the left end of the
cliff. Routes are described from right to left.
Royal Layback 5.5, 12m
About 30 m from the right end of the cliff is
an inside corner whose left wall is bright orange. Climb the 3-inch crack
using lay-away holds.
Everett Fee, Cam Grose - 1992 May 11
Falling Sun 5.8, 12m
Just around the outside corner to the left of
Royal Layback is a wall crossed diagonally by a prominent dike of bright
orange rock. Follow the crack that starts at the bottom of this face and
ends under a small grey roof. Finish by traversing right (crux).
Everett Fee, Cam Grose - 1992 May 20
Ice Out 5.6, 12m **
An excellent route that follows the inside corner
a few meters left of Falling Sun. Move left to escape the small grey roof
near the top.
Everett Fee, Cam Grose - 1992 May 11
Hot Wind 5.7, 12m *
Follow the inside corner just left of Ice Out
to a broad ledge. Go right, then straight up a crack on the face. Finish
on the outside of the buttress.
Everett Fee, Cam Grose - 1992 May 20
Billygoat's Gruff 5.8, 12m TR
Climb the wall immediately right of Fifteen Minutes...
to a ridge and over a nose.
Mark Loewen, Cam Grose - 1992 June 14
Fifteen Minutes after Cheescake 5.10, 12m **
TR
Begins about 30 m left of Hot Wind and 5 m past
a low overhang with the prominent detached outward-leaning slab. Follow
a deep dihedral to a roof (crux).
Mark Loewen, Cam Grose - 1992 June 14
Beginner's Buttress 5.3, 14m *
About 30 m left of Billygoat's Gruff is a prominent
inside corner with a small roof about 3 m up. Climb the right side of the
buttress 3 m right of the corner (the left side of the buttress is 5.5;
the direct line up the buttress is 5.6; the corner itself is 5.6). Traverse
left into the corner just above above the overhang and follow the corner
to the top.
Everett Fee - 1993 May 21
Lake 262
The fine cliffs on the west side of this lake make
it well worth the time required to get there. Three distinct formations
are recognizable: The North Cliff is up to 40 m high; it runs alongside
the lake shore for a long distance, but only a relatively small part of
it (at G.R. 498068) has extensive climbing possibilities. It offers several
fine moderate routes (Prelude, Super Crack, Aurora Borealis, and The Chief)
as well as one sensational harder line (Thunderbird). The Temple of the
Sun is a huge square theater referred to in several route descriptions;
it is located near the top left end of this cliff; protected from wind
and rain, it commands an impressive view over the lake toward the rising
sun. To the left of the North Cliff is a long blank stretch of rock. The
Interior Cliff starts at the point where the lakeshore deviates sharply
away from this cliff (G.R. 497067); it continues into the bush and features
a beautiful waterfall. Continuing left along the lake shore, the South
Cliff rises abruptly from the lake at G.R. 495064. It is extensively fractured,
with many lines up to 25 m long; much remains to be done here. There are
also some interesting indian rock paintings (mostly hand prints) on a steep
lichen-free granite face near the right end of this cliff.
Descent from all routes on the North Cliff is by
rappel. From most anchors, a single rope will not reach the bottom when
doubled. If you only have one rope, don't head south and rappel by the
waterfall unless you are prepared to swim back to the base of the climbs.
A rappel suitable for a single rope starts at a prominent lone jack pine
at the north end of the cliff, just above Wounded Tree. For the Interior
Cliff, rappel by the waterfall. On the South Cliff, there is an exit route
whose top is marked with two cairns; the top is quite far right of the
bottom, which starts about 15 m right of Blade Runner and goes up a series
of ramps and inside corners.
Access is from the Trans-Canada Highway. Put in
on the West Arm of Eagle Lake at G.R. 626170 and paddle down to a short
portage into Winnange Lake at G.R. 528098. Another portage at G.R. 503073
leads to L.262. Access time 4 hours. The ELA Pine Road gives quicker access
to Winnange Lake. Take the secondary road 20.9 km from the Trans-Canada
Highway and in about 0.8 km it crosses a creek at G.R. 455058; continue
on to the end of this road, taking the left fork just before it ends. A
short (200 m) trail leads to Winnange. There are good campsites on L.262
at the end of the portage and on the peninsula at G.R. 503071.
The routes are described from right to left.
N O R T H C L I F F
Wounded Tree 5.3, 24m
Goes up the right side of a heavily fractured
gully on the southwest side of the lakeside terrace with the large pine
trees on the northwest side of the lake. A prominent lone jack pine halfway
up the cliff marks the top of the route. Named for the damage done to the
belay anchor by a massive boulder dislodged on the first ascent.
Everett Fee, Richard Tilley, Lucille Doucette
- 1990 Sept 3
Lay-back Chimney 5.5, 21m
Start a few meters to the left of Wounded Tree
and climb the narrow chimney with a clump of birch growing out of its base.
Move left above the chimney and then straight up to the junipers left of
the big jack pine.
Richard Tilley, Everett Fee - 1990 Sept 3
Prelude 5.5, 34m *
A good introduction to this cliff. It starts above
a boulder field about 20 m left of Wounded Tree. Pitch 1. 21m. Follow a
short dihedral to right-trending cracks. Move under a roof (crux) and up
a crack to a stance. Pitch 2. 12m. Go up a short steep section and then
trend left to finish. The direct finish is dirty and difficult.
Everett Fee, Doug Leonard, Peter Whiteford - 1978
Sept 17
Juniper Jungle 5.6, 27m
A terrific looking inside corner in the center
of the lakeside wall, just to the left of the blank face with the huge
overhang. It has a good short crux but too much prickly vegetation to make
it worth the trouble.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 July 11
Thunderbird 5.8, 34m ***
The stuff that dreams are made of. It begins at
a left trending ramp a few steps left of Juniper Jungle. Climb 10 m on
a moderate but unprotected face to a very welcome ledge. Take varied cracks
to a prominent horizontal crack and traverse left to the crux--a long,
right-leaning jam crack.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1982 July 28
Super Crack 5.6, 34m *
A route for stoics, with a long, exciting crux.
Start on the outside corner of the buttress to the right of The Temple
of the Sun. Move up easily to a horn and go to the right around an herbaceous
corner to gain the crack. At this point it is wide enough for hands; over
the next 20 m it narrows to finger width.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 July 11
Aurora Borealis 5.6, 27m *
Unusually varied and memorable. Follow the inside
corner on the right side of the alcove beneath The Temple to a comfortable
ledge above a clump of birch trees. The overhang in the corner is the last
serious obstacle.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1982 July 28
Camino al Templo 5.6, 18m
Delicate and interesting. Start below an outside
corner on the right side of the square alcove beneath The Temple. Thin
cracks lead to a sloping ledge halfway up. Jam, undercling and stem along
the left sides of downsloping flakes to The Temple.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 July 2
Loon 5.6, 27m
A worthwhile route on the left side of the alcove
beneath The Temple. Follow the inside corner to The Temple. Traverse left
on the sheer wall and go over an impressive but easy overhang to the top.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1982 July 28
The Chief 5.5, 37m **
A big route with excellent positions and sustained
interest. Climb a short chimney on the left side of the buttress to the
left of The Temple to an easy overhang and then follow cracks to a prominent
guano-covered spike. (It is a grade easier to avoid the overhang on the
left.) Traverse right above the spike and move into a big slot behind the
huge flake. Move up the slot to exit. The steep face split by a thin crack
to the left of the chimney offers an interesting 5.7 variation.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 July 10
I N T E R I O R C L I F F
Lost Girls 5.10a, 11m TR
Start on some large blocks at the point where
the lake shore veers sharply away from the cliff. Move up cracks about
3 m to a good ledge. Climb the overhanging left-trending finger crack and
squirm over the rounded top.
Randy Abbott - 1992 May 18
Solid Fun 5.9, 23m **
Start 600 m right of Tropical Punch and just right
of a birch tree. Climb a big left-facing inside corner to a ledge at 2/3
height. Go straight up the face on a thin seam to a shallow ledge and traverse
left (arms only) up to a big ledge. Move left and up to finish.
Rob Hester, Kenton Frith, Jake Klassen - 1992
May 18
English Country Garden 5.7, 30m **
Follow an obvious left-trending (and dirty) hand
and fist-sized crack until it starts moving right. Move over a bulge to
a large ledge, then up to another ledge.
Mike Baxter, Susan Baker-Baxter, Peter Aitchison
- 1991 May 19
S O U T H C L I F F
Blade Runner 5.9/A1, 24m ***
Goes up the obvious right-trending break at the
right end of the cliff. Climb cracks to the overhang at the top, which
was overcome with one aid move.
Jeff Aitchison, Peter Aitchison, Sebastian May,
Adrian - 1990 May
Lake 259
In spite of its modest size, routes on this cliff
are of remarkably high quality (all but one are starred). It is also one
of the most accessible sites because the ELA Pine Road touches the shore
of L.259 23.7 km from the Trans-Canada Highway. The cliff is about 100
yards from the northwest shore of the lake (G.R. 433052). To get there,
canoe up the length of the lake and scramble up a boulder field. Access
time: 20 minutes.
New Beginning 5.2, 15m
A fine introduction to rock climbing. It starts
at the left end of the cliff and follows a staircase up to a big flake
on the right. Continue straight up the thin crack above the flake to the
top.
Everett Fee, Doug Leonard - 1982 Sept 13
Second Coming 5.9, 18m **
A spectacular and sustained route up a vertical
crack through an imposing overhang located about 30 m from the left end
of the cliff, directly behind a huge detached flake.
Doug Leonard, Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1982 Sept
13
Mystery Tour 5.9, 21m *
A well appointed and exacting climb located just
left of the bald face at the tallest part of the cliff. It starts to the
left of an alcove under a prominent low roof and follows an obscure inside
corner system. Pitch 1. 12m. Finger traverse off a narrow ledge to a short
right trending dihedral. Move onto the face above the dihedral and follow
cracks to a large block. Go past the block on the left to a broad ledge.
Pitch 2. 9m. Move right up a short bench to a notch and finish up the narrow
crack.
Doug Leonard, Dan Price - 1982 Sept 26
Cave Corner 5.4, 21m ***
This grand classic (the first route climbed in
the region) follows the inside corner which leads to caves at the top of
the tallest part of the cliff; the caves are clearly visible from the lake.
Climb the corner and enter the chimney on the left. At top of the chimney,
step across to holds on the right.
Everett Fee, Peter Whiteford - 1977
Low Overhead 5.6, 21m *
An interesting varied route. It follows the vertical
cleft which starts 3 m right of Cave Corner. Jam and chimney to a ledge
halfway up the cliff. Go up and left under the first overhang to an alcove.
Finish to the right under the second and third overhangs.
Everett Fee - 1981 July 18
Frog Legs 5.8, 20m **
A fine climb 12 m right of Cave Corner, where
the cliff turns to the west. Layback the thin overhanging edge at the right
side of a steep slab; then face climb up to a good ledge. Confusing cracks
(crux) lead to another good ledge and a steep face for the finish. Everett
Everett Fee - 1981 May 17
Lake 310
This remote site is located off the southeast corner
of Teggau Lake. There are a few worthy routes here (Wildest Dreams, Dukes
of Hazard, and Farewell to Arms) but the left side of the cliff has loose
rock and it is not as consistently interesting as previously described
cliffs. It is located on the southeast shore of a big bay (G.R. 541010)
and is only a small part of a massive granite promontory. The other side
of this formation is an even higher and steeper cliff than the one described
here, but it has little apparent climbing potential.
Two access routes are available: The first starts
at the Trans-Canada Highway at G.R. 626170. Canoe down the west Arm of
Eagle Lake. Paddle up the stream that enters Eagle Lake at G.R. 537089;
the portage into Teggau starts at G.R. 538087. Short portages at G.R. 532012
and G.R. 534013 lead to Lake 310. This route has easier portaging and route
finding than the other but it is longer and it crosses the length of Teggau
Lake, which can be difficult in high winds. Access time 1 day. The second
access route starts from the ELA Pine Road at the west end of Roddy Lake
(incorrectly marked Teggau Creek on 52F/12) (G.R. 442037, 23.7 km from
the Trans-Canada Highway). The portage into Teggau Lake starts on a rock
shelf at G.R. 504024 and ends at G.R. 515024. Cross the south end of Teggau
to short portages at G.R. 532012 and G.R. 534013. Access time 1/2 day.
This route is shorter and avoids the open waters of Teggau Lake, but the
portage into Teggau from Roddy is the longest in the region (1 km). The
best nearby campsite is the island at G.R. 531026 on Teggau Lake.
Routes are described from left to right. There
is a good exit route on the right (south) end of the cliff.
Tipicanoe 5.5, 27m
Located in a prominent gully on the fractured
left side of the cliff. This unsatisfying route starts by stepping from
the canoe onto steep rock. Go up and right along a ledge. The subsequent
move into the gully is the only real problem.
Casey Shaw, Dorland Brown - 1982 Sept 27
Wildest Dreams 5.4, 27m **
An estimable lead on unusual rock. It follows
a crack and chimney system located between the place where the cliff leaves
the lake shore and a huge overhang to the right. Pitch 1. 15m. Start behind
the lone spruce tree growing next to the face and move up a steep section.
Follow irregular cracks to the left and belay behind the bizarre flake.
Pitch 2. 12m. Move left into the corner, then go up over a flake and squeeze
through the narrow slot at the top of the overhang.
Tibor Bodi, Everett Fee - 1982 Sept 27
Throwaway 5.5, 24m
A scrappy line with one hard move. Start a few
steps left of the dark inside corner to the left of the bulgy wall at the
tallest part of the cliff. Climb a short steep face to an alcove. Continue
up and left easily to a birch tree. Go back right and up, finishing with
a strenuous mantleshelf.
Tibor Bodi, Everett Fee - 1982 Sept 27
Stormy Sky 5.6, 27m
A good route hidden on the left side of the bulgy
wall at the tallest part of the cliff. Pitch 1. 14m. Move up the dark inside
corner to a small overhang. Go left and up over an awkward flake (crux)
and traverse back to the right to belay. Pitch 2. 14m. Follow cracks in
the right inside corner to a small overhang at the top. Finish up and to
the right.
Casey Shaw, Dorland Brown - 1982 Sept 27
Friends and Rocks 5.6, 12m
A short but sustained inside corner. It ends abruptly
under a prominent overhang on the right side of the bulgy wall at the tallest
part of the cliff.
Everett Fee, Tibor Bodi, Casey Shaw - 1982 Sept
27
Dukes of Hazard 5.8, 24m **
An obviously hard (but well-protected) left-leaning
jam crack that cleaves the middle of the steep compact face to the right
of the tallest part of the cliff.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1982 Sept 26
Farewell to Arms 5.7, 27m ***
Varied and unexpectedly challenging. Traverse
across a ledge that cuts across the bottom of the steep compact face to
the right of the tallest part of the cliff. Follow cracks up and right
to the left leaning roof and corners.
Everett Fee, Tibor Bodi, Dorland Brown, Casey
Shaw - 1982 Sept 26
Double Indemnity 5.5, 21m
A gorgeous inside corner hidden from view near
the right end of the cliff. The crux overhang at the top is easier than
it seems at first.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1982 Sept 13
Lake 691
This small cliff is accessible by canoe from the
Trans-Canada Highway without portaging. The rock contains lots of biotite
(black mica; a mineral that bonds only in two dimensions) and is consequently
occasionally loose. Nevertheless, it offers many interesting routes; three
lines of sustained moderate difficulty on very sound rock ( Granite Byway,
Vulture's Shadow, and Casey's Way) are particularly recommended.
The cliff is located 3 km north of Teggau Lake.
Access starts from the Trans-Canada Highway on the West Arm of Eagle Lake
(G.R. 626170). Canoe down to the bay at the southwest extremity of this
lake and enter the narrow stream coming from L.691 (G.R. 551098), which
meanders through a beautiful marsh which can usually be negotiated without
portaging. Access time 3 hours.
To get to the cliff from the lake, start at the
smooth granite slab at G.R. 565106 and bushwhack up to a broad terrace.
Follow the boulder field up and to the right. Both sides of the cliff have
exit routes; the one on the right is the easiest to negotiate. There is
a fine campsite on the small island opposite the cliff. Routes are described
from right to left.
Accord 5.2, 18m
A lackluster route that starts about 60 m from
the exit route on the right side of the cliff. Climb the prominent right
leaning inside corner to the small terrace with a pine tree halfway up
the cliff. Continue up to the left.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 May 23
Wish You Were Here 5.8, 24m
A bizarre route that starts below a thin right-trending
face crack about 15 m right of the overhanging corner in the center of
the cliff. Pitch 1. 3m. Climb the crack to an obvious ledge. Pitch 2. 21m.
Move up and right onto a shelf, then around into the inside corner (possibly
part of another route) and up the corner to the top.
Terry Makos, Casey Shaw - 1982 July 2
Granite Byway 5.3, 18m *
A surprisingly good route up a series of cracks
and flakes. Start on the right side of a prominent outside corner about
30 m to the left of the overhanging corner at the center of the cliff and
about 15 m right of a granite bulge that makes the traverse along the base
of the cliff dicey.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 May 24
Vulture's Shadow 5.5, 18m *
An exciting climb following an obvious crack and
chimney system about 3 m left of the prominent outside corner to the left
of Granite Byway.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1982 May 23
Casey's Way 5.5, 20m *
A sustained line that starts in an inside corner
about 30 m right of a wide chimney that runs parallel to the main face
on the far left side of the cliff. Move up the juggy inside corner to the
side of a huge terrace. Jam and bridge up the narrow chimney to the top.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee, Peter Aitchison - 1982
July 1
Teggau
Lake
Canoeing on this magnificent lake is one of the
highlights that ELA offers wilderness travellers. There are some unusually
intricate Indian rock paintings on an overhanging granite wall at the northwest
side of the lake just past the point where a narrow arm of the lake extends
towards Eagle Lake.
There are several cliffs on or near the lake shore;
the only one that has been developed is located in a gully off the northeast
corner of the lake (G.R. 558075). To get to it, start from the left side
of the small stream at G.R. 552072 and bushwack in a northeasterly direction
for about 10 minutes. This cliff is very extensive, and dozens of routes
remain undone but the rock is not the typically solid granite found at
other cliffs in the ELA region--be careful when climbing here. Access can
be from either Eagle Lake (see directions to L.262) or Roddy Lake (see
directions to L.310).
Routes are described from left to right.
Exit Route 5.1, 18m
The large chimney/fissure located behind the immense
flake at the left end of the cliff.
Spooky Ledge 5.7, 27m *
Follow the leftmost of 3 sloping cracks above
a birch clump near the center of first major face of the cliff to a ledge
infested with junipers. Traverse a few meters right to a vertical crack,
then up to another ledge with junipers; finish in a dark chimney.
Tibor Bodi, Richard Tilley - 1991 June 30
Split Crack 5.6, 27m
Located in the centre of the first major face
of the cliff, 30 m right of the exit route. It can be recognized by the
sloping ledge and crack which angles up 10 m and then splits into two branches.
Right branch: Richard Tilley, Peter Aitchison
- 1979 Aug, Left branch: Peter Gough, Bob France, Janet Gough - 1979 Aug
Quasimodo 5.8, 24m *
A face and crack climb demanding both finesse
and finger strength. It is located near the right end of the first major
face of the cliff, before the long overhanging wall. Start at the base
of a shallow dihedral and climb to an obvious notch. Trend left up to and
over (crux) a ledge with two trees.
Doug Leonard - 1982 Sept 12
Black Corner 5.6, 21m
A slightly overhanging but juggy inside corner
covered with dark lichens 3 m right of Quasimodo.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1982 Sept 12
Stygian Fissure 5.6, 24m *
An excellent route located at the front of the
prominent nose halfway along the cliff. Move up a dark crack that is perpetually
shaded by close growing trees until it widens into a chimney. Stay at outside
edge of chimney, then move out onto the face of the flake (tricky) and
climb the face to finish.
Peter Gough, Bob France - 1979 Aug
Gough's Glory 5.9, 30m *
A challenging and sustained route found on right
of the cliff just around the corner from Stygian Fissure. Climb bottom
section and sloping ledge to the first overhang. Move right and then up
to the crux just below the top of route.
Peter Gough, Bob France - 1979 Aug
On a Wire 5.9, 18m ***
The left-hand of a pair of obvious left-facing
corners at the top-middle of the second large boulder field. The climbing
is sustained and enjoyable. Go straight up the crack-corner.
Mark Giesbrecht, Rafael Munoz - 1992 May 13
Eye Sore 5.7, 21m **
The right-hand of a pair of obvious left facing
corners at the top-middle of the second large boulder field. Climb up the
corner and move right to finish the route.
Ralph Wright, Peter Aitchison - 1992 May 13
Boulder in my Butt 5.8, 37m ***
The most impressive route on the cliff. It follows
a huge crack-chimney system located at the far right side of the cliff.
A prominent large boulder is jammed about 20 m up the climb. The very hard-looking
direct finish (top pitch) up a series of overhangs has yet to be attempted.
Pitch 1. 20m. Climb up the cracks and over the big jammed boulder. Pitch
2. 20m. Climb left and up the jagged crack on the left wall.
Mark Giesbrecht, Ralph Wright, Rafael Munoz, Peter
Aitchison - 1992 May 13
Ass of Steel 5.6, 34m **
A right-trending crack-corner-chimney system starting
about 15 m right of Boulder in my Butt.
Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison - 1992 May 13
Manomin
Lake
There are two cliffs on this lake: The East Cliff
is close to the lake shore at G.R. 469128 and behind the massive square
boulder; there is an obscure exit route on the left end of this cliff near
two large boulders. The Northwest Cliff is farther from the lake shore
(G.R. 452143); it takes about 30 minutes of bush crashing to get to it
(don't forget your compass); this cliff is fairly uniform in structure
with few oobvious routes. Climbs on bot cliffs are described from left
to right.
Access starts from the ELA Pine road, 10.8 km from
the Trans-Canada Highway. A portage leads to the SW corner of Geejay Lake
(G.R. 423132). Canoe to the east end of Geejay and follow the portage that
starts at a cabin (G.R. 447138). Access time 1.5 hours.
E A S T C L I F F
The Tenant 5.10, 12m *
A short but surprisingly sustained test piece
that starts behind the rightmost of two large boulders at the left end
of the cliff. Face climb 4 m to a ledge and follow the obvious hand/finger
crack to the top.
Casey Shaw - 1984 July 2
Mr. Clean 5.9, 27m ***
A direct line that follows the rightmost of two
big inside corners 15 m right of the two large boulders. A few "boulder
moves" lead to a triangular ledge. Follow the finger crack for 25 m.
Casey Shaw, Tibor Bodi - 1984 July 1
Welcome Home Casey 5.7, 34m
The rightmost of two big chimneys that flank a
massive piece of granite near the middle of the cliff. Moving around the
outside of the giant chockstone at the bottom of the chimney is the crux.
Casey Shaw, Tibor Bodi - 1984 July 1
Happy Birthday Canada 5.4, 30m
Goes up the broken corner 15 m right of Welcome
Home Casey. The bottom is loose and dirty but the top 20 m are sustained
and very worthwhile.
Everett Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1984 July 1
Afterthought 5.5, 27m
A hand crack that goes through a small roof around
the corner to the right of Happy Birthday Canada. Traverse right above
the roof to a chimney.
Tibor Bodi, Casey Shaw - 1984 July 2
All Together Now 5.7, 27m **
The corner 10 m right of Afterthought. A hard
mantleshelf move leads to a ramp, an overhanging block and a tight corner.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee, Tibor Bodi - 1984 July
2
At it Again 5.6, 27m *
Follows the inside corner just to the left of
a big overhang a short distance left of the place where the cliff turns
to the east.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1984 July 1
Dislike to Lichen 5.5, 24m
Just past the place where the cliff turns to the
east is an 3 meter tall detached flake. The route follows the irregular
cracks above the flake.
Tibor Bodi, Lucille Doucette - 1984 July 1
N O R T H W E S T C L I F F
Simon Says 5.8, 24m **
The left trending crack just left of the center
of the cliff.
Ralph Wright, Mark Giesbrecht, Peter Aitchison
- 1991
Peter Does 5.6, 24m *
A straight up crack on the right side of the alcove
near the center of the cliff leads to the overhang. Traverse right under
the overhang to the top.
Peter Aitchison, Ralph Wright, Mark Giesbrecht,
Rafael Munoz - 1991
Point
Lake
This is not a major ELA attraction: It is very
remote, has lots of broken rock, and most cracks are filled with lichen,
dirt and bushes. The surrounding region was also severely burned a few
years ago. Nevertheless, rock hungry locals who want to get away from it
all will enjoy the few good routes that this cliff offers.
Access starts at the end of a logging road on Dryberry
Lake (G.R. 464929). The cliff is at G.R. 506951 on the north shore of Point
Lake about 1.5 km from the east end of the lake and faces southeast. Paddle
north 3 km to Point Lake and then east 3 km. Access time 1 hour. Routes
are described from left to right.
Tangled up in Blue 5.10, 27m
A full-on roof problem that follows a crack system
near the left end of the cliff. An easy inside corner leads to the crux--an
overhanging jam crack 2/3 of the way up the cliff.
Casey Shaw - 1984 Aug 24
Among Friends 5.6, 21m
Follows an inside corner/chimney located to the
left of the center of the cliff. The only hard move is a short offwidth
crack that can be largely avoided by stemming.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw - 1984 Aug 25
Just like Sir Donald 5.2, 21m *
A good sustained route that ascends an inside
corner/chimney system located near the center of the cliff. A big pine
tree arches gracefully from the chimney at the top of the route.
Everett Fee - 1984 Aug 24
Avoid the Void 5.8, 27m ***
A truly fine route that starts near the right
end of the cliff where the cliff leaves the lake shore. It follows a series
of flakes, cracks, and chimneys.
Casey Shaw, Everett Fee - 1984 Aug 25
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt Narrows
Lily Pond
Direct Lake Legal
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