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Gooseneck - Main
Cliff - Lakeside
Take it so Hard 5.5, 9m
Start at the left end of the large block, 3m right
of the outside corner. Ascend the left trending crack to where it meets
the crack travelling right (crux). Climb straight up between both cracks.
Finish on the large ledge and belay from the crack behind the tree.
Robert Hester, Cam McKenzie, Duncan Frazer - 1989
Apr 30
Gimme Gimme Gimme 5.10a, 23m *
Start at the right end of the large block, 8m
right of the outside corner. Ascend the left trending crack to the ledge
above. Next, starting behind the tree, move right onto the face and climb
the cracks and grooves (crux with bolt) to the ledge above. Climb straight
up the face, right of the small pine tree, to finish.
Robert Hester, Cam McKenzie, Peter Aitchison -
1989 June 4
Gimme Some More 5.10a, R 29m *
This route offers a harder and longer finish to
Gimme Gimme Gimme. Start as for Gimme Gimme Gimme. Climb to the second
ledge then traverse right (poor protection). Move right and traverse 7m
along the thin ledges to a crack. Climb straight up the crack to finish.
Robert Hester, Evan Fox-Decent, John Moore - 1989
Oct 14
Weasel Crack 5.7, 21m *
Start at the base of the large impressive crack
which splits the bulging face. Climb up an easy crack to the broad terrace.
The wide, right-sloping crack above the terrace is the crux.
Hugh Spencer, Peter Aitchison, Larry Jordan -
1972 Aug 13
Keelhaul 5.6, 18m
Start at the first inside corner, about 6m right
of Weasel Crack. Start up the dark corner then move left past some brush
to a big ledge. Move left along the ledge a few meters to a series of vertical
cracks. Climb the cracks and move through some small inside corners to
finish.
Peter Aitchison, Chris Armstrong, Bob Sanford
- 1975 Sept 14
Rainout 5.5, 15m
Follow the corner at Keelhaul higher (but it's
easy to get off route and into desperate situations if you go too high).
Take a rising traverse to the right along ledges and cracks. Finish at
the top of Exit Route.
Rainout - Too High 5.9, 16m
As per Rainout, climb until up against roof. Take
thin right trending traverse (thin gear/crux), then straight up wide crack.
Rafael Munoz, Conrad Hoeppner, Roland Ward - 1993
June
Seeanil 5.5, 15m
Ascend the wide hand crack to the right of Rainout.
Move up to the left of the main crack then back into it when two cracks
merge a short distance off the ground. Finish at the top of Exit Route.
Anil Shukla, Richard Tilley, Gerard Messaros -
1974 Sept 14
Seeanil - Crank Variation 5.10, 15m
Start a few meters right of the main crack below
a small overhang. Climb the overhang and follow the short finger crack
to the main crack. Continue up as for Seeanil or downclimb.
Anil Shukla, Richard Tilley, Gerard Messaros -
1974 Sept 14
Exit Route 5.1, 12m
Start behind a short wall and move diagonally
up from right to left, following an easy system of cracks and ledges. This
is the easiest way up or down at this end of the cliffs and is often climbed
without ropes - but be careful!
Tricky Trip 5.5, 9m *
Ascends the short corner set back to the right
of Exit Route. It offers great mantling moves.
Peter Aitchison, Hugh Spencer - 1972
Geoff Murray Weekend 5.9, 7m *
Start 5m right of Tricky Trip. Ascend the left
trending crack under the large flake. Join Tricky Trip at the ledge on
the left.
Casey Shaw, Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1982
May 2
Gutclutch 5.6, 18m
Start on the left side of an alcove, left of a
prominent arete and right of the large overhang. Climb into the corner,
then up the left wall. At the top jam past the blocky ledge on the right
to finish.
Hugh Spencer, Peter Aitchison - 1973 June 30
Class & Exam 5.9, 18m
Begin 2m right of Gutclutch. Start is slightly
overhanging with thin pro. Wide angle corner offers a committing challenge.
Move over small overhang to a sloping terrace, then mantle to reach higher
crack.
Rafael Munoz - 1994 Aug
Blood on the Tracks 5.9, 18m **
Follow the obvious overhanging left trending crack,
left of Ratchet and just left of a prominent arete.
Geoff Murray, Peter Gough - 1978
Ratchet 5.3, 18m *
A solid 5.3. Start below the inside corner right
of the prominent arete. Climb over the somewhat loose ledges to the corner.
Ascend the corner to finish up the chimney. Many harder variations can
be made near the bottom and near the top.
Snail 5.5, 21m R
A confusing, awkward climb. Start at a clump of
birch trees 7m right of Ratchet. Move left up the sloping ledge to a pine
tree. Climb back to the right around the corner and along the ledge. Finish
up some ledges at the extreme right and end as for Excretoria, or ascend
left from the large ledge. Beware of large, dangerously loose rocks.
Hugh Spencer, Larry Jordan, Barbara Spencer -
1972 July
Excretoria 5.6, 15m **
Start at the base of the wide chimney (the boulder
in front of the climb offers excellent seating for belaying and spectators).
Make a wide stem across the chimney (facing the lake is preferred) to ascend
to a big ledge, and finish to the left at the top. Alternatively, offwidth
the jam crack to the right to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Hugh Spencer - 1972 Aug 5
Summer Butterflies 5.11b, 18m TR
Start on left side of prominent arete, 3m right
of Excretoria. Move up and to right of arete (strenuous moves).
Mike Baxter, Doug Orr - 1995 Aug
It's so Easy 5.4, 12m
This route ascends left of the inside corner to
the left of Poser. Climb the large pillar and over some blocks, or climb
around right of the pillar, to the crack and slab. Ascend the slab to the
top ledge behind the tree.
Cam McKenzie, Duncan Frazer, Robert Hester - 1989
Apr 30
The Lord of Darkness 5.10c, 9m **
Ascend the black face between Poser and the curving
inside corner to the left. Starting between two parallel cracks, climb
the cracks, pockets, and edges straight up. Finish to the right of the
top of the inside corner.
TR: Robert Hester - 1989 Sept 23, FFA: Rafael
Munoz, Gerald Brandt, Rob Peters - 1999 June
Poser 5.6, 9m
A prominent, tight, squeeze chimney 12m right
of Excretoria. It's hard to protect.
Casey Shaw, Dick Erkaw - 1980 Aug 24
It'll All Come Out in the Wash 5.7, 12m
Start right of Poser. Climb to the ledge and swing
right. Ascend the crack and move through the overhangs to the right around
the arete. Follow the crack system to finish.
Doug Leonard, Robert France - 1982 July 4
Le Grand Traverse 5.8/C2, 300m+ **
A long, enjoyable, exploratory climb of the Gooseneck
Cliffs starting at Excretoria and traversing left all the way around to
the base of The Great Orc. (A shorter sortie ends at the base of Sail Slab,
145m in 9 pitches). Multiple pitches which cross, ascend and descend dozens
of established routes. (Note that the leader must carefully protect the
second throughout!) Pitch 1. 5.8, 16m: Start at the base of Excretoria.
Traverse left along the obvious ledge, then duck around the corner and
belay part way up Snail. Pitch 2. 5.3, 22m: Continue a rising traverse
left past Ratchet and Blood on the Tracks and finish on the ledge left
above Gutclutch. Pitch 3. 5.5, 25m: Proceed along the ledge to Tricky Trip
and reverse down it. Alternatively, reverse Gutclutch and climb Geoff Murray
Weekend (5.9) to Tricky Trip. Then traverse left, descend a few feet of
Seeanil, reverse Rainout, and move left out of the chimney to gain the
large terrace bisecting Keelhaul and Weasel Crack. Pitch 4. 5.2, 28m: Walk
along the terrace and around the corner to Pinnacle Overhang. From here
squeeze down the inside of the pinnacle. Pitch 5. 5.2,XXX? 28m: Move over
the boulders near ground level to a short wall. Pitch 6. 5.7, 7m: Ascend
the face to the large ledge, using a difficult arm reach move and belay
from the top. Pitch 7. 5.5/C2, 9m: Move left, staying high, by reaching
across the large corner and inserting clean aid, to pass over the blank
facing wall. Continue around the corner and belay on the next large ledge.
Pitch 8. 5.6, 22m: Move left to the bottom section of Toad-in-the-Hole.
Continue left, climbing part way up Durin to a series of ledges and belay.
Pitch 9. 5.2, 16m: Reverse Sail Slab to the ground. Pitch 10. 5.XX, XXm:Traverse
across to No One Nose, climb half way up, and delicately traverse to finish
up on Hugh's Horror. Pitch 11. 5.XX, XXm: Climb to the top of Hugh's Horror
and rappel to near the base of Inner Limit. Pitch 12. 5.XX, XXm: Climb
up start of Inner Limit and do a long traverse left along the obvious ledge
system (several difficult crux moves). Pitch 13. 5.XX, XXm: Continue until
ledge system ends just before Gooseneck Chimney. Pitch 14. 5.8, 17m: Climb
up Gooseneck Chimney onto the terrace. Pitch 15. 5.XX, XXm: Move left and
climb to the top at the left end of the terrace, traversing left. Pitch
16. Rappel down to the cliff base at the road, just left of The Great Orc.
Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1983 Aug 2
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt
Narrows Lily
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