|
Gooseneck -
Main Cliff - Roadside Face
The Scenic Route 5.0, 40m
From the road, follow a path up and left to the
end of the cliff. This route starts in the trees at the left edge of the
slab. Mantel onto a large rounded ledge, then climb the corner where the
wall meets the slab. Move past the tree to a more gentle slope. An easy
scramble leads to the top of the cliffs. Frequently downclimbed, slippery
when wet.
Desire 5.9, 8m
Start at the trees 4m right of the second bulge
on the way up The Scenic Route. Ascend the obvious crack through a short
roof to the top.
Robert Hester
Exit Staircase 5.1, 12m
From the road, follow the path that leads up towards
the huge low-angled slab (Beginner's Slab) at the left end of the cliff.
The route starts 3m from a large spruce tree, at an inside corner at the
left edge of the slab. Climb the corner using the edge of the flake and
cracks where the wall meets the slab. An easy scramble left then right
leads to the top of the cliffs. Frequently downclimbed, but be wary if
you're unfamiliar with the bottom.
Lust 5.10d, 7m TR
Start from partway up Exit Staircase, 6m left
of Utah Crack. Ascend thin horizontal ledges to bolts above.
Robert Hester
Utah Crack 5.8, 7m
From partway up the Exit Staircase, ascend the
crack at the left end of the huge flake to tree on terrace above.
Robert Hester
Wiggle & Thrash 5.4, 17m
Start from the ground half way between Exit Staircase
and Beginner's Corner. Follow blocky ledge system to prominent ledge.
Robert Hester
Beginner's Corner 5.3, 9m
This route begins at the highest point above the
rubble slope below an outside corner. Climb up the outside corner and continue
to a big ledge with a tree.
Rachel 5.11c, 7m TR
Ascend the face just right of Beginner's Corner.
Toprope from trad gear to bush on sloping ledge (part way up slab).
Mike Baxter
Beginner's Slab 5.3, 37m *
Start at the left end of a large ramp leading
right at the top of the rubble slope, right of Beginner's Corner. Move
up ramp, then left to a small pinnacle, then up and right to the base of
the slab. Continue directly up the centre of the slab to a large ledge
and a good tree belay. Many variations are possible (bolts at 2/3 height
now permit a multi-pitch hanging belay).
Hugh Spencer, Barbara Spencer - 1972 July 1
Hung Hammer 5.4, 37m
Start on the right edge of Beginner's Slab, below
a steep ascending staircase of small ledges. Ascend the ledges more or
less straight up to the edge of the slab. Climb the slab, seeking the line
of least resistance; don't go too far right, as this leads to difficult
terrain.
Peter Aitchison, Larry Jordan, Elmer Howitt -
1972 Aug 12
Sparkle and Fade 5.11d, 15m TR *
Scramble up the first 5m of Groper, then traverse
left 3m to an obvious white and black water-streaked line. Thin and sustained
face climbing leads to a hand crack finish.
Mike Baxter - 1996 Oct
Groper 5.7, 34m *
This route starts at the large inside corner right
of Hung Hammer. * Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the right side of the ledges to the
corner below the obvious crux - a wide, slightly overhanging crack - which
leads to an alcove. * Pitch 2, 18m: Continue up the corner to a ledge with
trees.
Peter Aitchison, Hugh Spencer - 1972 Sept 23
Groper Direct 5.8, 40m *
After the first pitch of Groper, go straight up
the wall on the right above the alcove.
Doug Leonard, Caroline Marion - 1989
Groper Deluxe 5.8, 46m **
After the first pitch of Groper, traverse right
from the alcove along the ledge on the steep wall. Follow cracks through
the freshly broken area over a large detached block. Ascend the slab above
to finish. A safer variation that avoids most of the loose rock goes straight
up cracks to the left of the large detached block.
Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1980 May 4, Variation:
Ralph Wright, Mark Giesbrecht, Peter Aitchison - 1989 Sept
Minuet & Trio 5.10d, 26m TR
Starts 5m right of Groper. Trend up and right
through upside-down ledges, connect with 4th bolt of Pick Yourself Up,
and move left to finish 3m past chains.
Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison, Ralph Wright -
1994 June
Pick Yourself Up 5.12a, 24m **
Follow bolts that start near a 5cm crack on the
face 7m right of Groper. Continue up the face when the crack pinches out.
Climb directly through two small overhangs to the notch/rock scar to chains.
Casey Shaw - 1991 Aug
Funny Face 5.10d, 27m
Starts a few meters right of Pick Yourself Up.
Climb past a piton in a horizontal crack and then up past 7 bolts to the
top.
Doug Leonard, Terry Makos - 1990 Sept 23
Flying Down to Rio 5.11b, 28m TR **
Start by climbing left of the arete just left
of Swing Time. Face climb to a large no-hands rest and continue up to the
chains. A 55m rope is needed if top-roping from the Swing Time chains.
Doug Leonard, Mike Baxter - 1993 June
Swing Time 5.11b, 27m TR
Begin right of Funny Face at the wide crack below
a small arête. Climb to the top of the wide crack then up the arete,
finishing on a small ledge below two bolts and a chain. Note: a 55m rope
is needed for this one.
Doug Leonard - 1989 July 8
When Oceans Explode 5.11c, 23m ***
Great Climbing! About 5m right of Swing Time,
ascend large holds to a horizontal crack for your first piece (# 2 Friend)
then follow 7 bolts and a #7 nut to the chain anchor at the top.
Mike Baxter - 1996 May
Frog-in-the-Crack 5.9! 63m ***
An excellent varied route. Start below some ledges
about 7m left of the prominent outside corner. * Pitch 1, 12m: Climb the
ledges and hand traverse right to a prominent flake. From a stance on the
flake, hand traverse right to a crack, and mantle onto the belay ledge
(the good foothold that previously existed below the crack is gone; the
crux is now a grade harder and difficult to protect). On the first ascent,
the leader stepped in a sling attached to a piton in the crack at the back
of the hand traverse ledge.* Pitch 2, 15m: Move around the corner to the
right and struggle through a bush. Beautiful cracks in the arete above
end at a good ledge.* Pitch 3, 12m: Climb the corner above the ledge, move
left onto a small slab, and up to the tree. * Pitch 4, 23m: Climb straight
up the slabs to finish. An alternative of equal difficulty traverses left
from the belay stance onto an intimidating face. Ascend the crack in the
face to finish.
FA: (5.8/A2) Peter Aitchison, Hugh Spencer - 1972
Aug 13, FFA: Ian Clark, Geoff Murray, Trevor Down - 1978
Knee Deep in the Hoopla 5.11b, 49m ***
* Pitch 1, 25m: Begin at starting point for Frog-in-the-Crack
but continue up the thin seam and small inside corner to a triangular shaped
belay ledge. * Pitch 2, 24m, 5.7: Continue over a small bulge and move
onto slabs to finish at the top of Frog's belay tree. (Thin & awkward
gear!)
Mike Baxter, Sue Baker Baxter - 1996, June
The Lost Connection 5.8, 49m **
This route introduces a novel first pitch for
Frog-in-the-Crack. Start up the Great Corner. After the first overhang,
break left up a steep ramp and move around a roof to the belay ledge on
Frog-in-the-Crack.
Doug Leonard, Dan Price - 1986 May
Great Corner 5.9! 49m ***
Spectacular and sustained climbing up the huge
inside corner right of Frog-in-the-Crack.* Pitch 1, 24m: Climb the corner
and slab, overcoming two overhangs to the ledge with a birds nest.* Pitch
2, 25m: Climb the corner and face.
Peter Aitchison - 1975 July
Tickling Ten 5.10a, 45m
Start 2m right of Great Corner. Follow shallow
inside corners up to first bolts of Great Slab (runout). Follow a thin
seam straight up on small wires to the next bolt. New bridge of overhang
follows direct line to top of cliff.
Rafael Munoz, Ralph Wright - 1989 July
Great Slab 5.9, 55m **
Start to the right of the Great Corner, approximately
4 m left of the outside edge of the slab, almost directly in front of the
large boulders.* Pitch 1, 34m: Go straight up 12 m then trend left to the
large ledge with bolts at 1/3 height in the middle of the slab. Move left
and climb up the slab to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right
under the overhang and up through a weakness to a ledge with bolts.* Pitch
2, 21m. Several variations widely varying in difficulty are possible for
this pitch. The original: ascend 2 m on small holds then go right and up
a left trending crack.
Peter Gough, Peter Aitchison - 1979
By Hook or by Crook 5.10c, 46m **
A direct line up the slab. Start as for Great
Slab or use small holds 2m to the right. * Pitch 1, 30m: Climb straight
up 10m then move up diagonally to the right across a blank section to a
left trending crack. Ascend the crack, then move up to the overhang. Follow
right under the overhang to the weak point (as for Great Slab). Belay from
the ledge with bolts above the overhang. * Pitch 2, 21m: Same as Great
Slab.
Ralph Wright, Peter Aitchison - 1990
On the Edge 5.11b, 46m ***
Start on the terrace above the right side of the
Great Slab. Climb a thin inside corner which leads onto the far right side
of the slab up easier ground (past 1 bolt) to overcome overhang. Over the
roof is easier climbing to the top of the slab.
FA: (5.9/C2 in 3 pitches) Ralph Wright, Peter
Aitchison - 1990 June 12, FFA: Mike Baxter, Doug Orr - 1996 Aug
The Mitre 5.11b, 48m ***
The original start ascended the left side of the
huge inside corner immediately right of the Great Slab; a direct start
begins on small holds 2m to the right. * Pitch 1, 24m: Climb to a belay
stance at a large jammed block above a small triangular shaped slab at
2/3 height. Beware, this block it is not solid. * Pitch 2, 24m: Climb straight
up through the corner and overhang (crux) past a fixed nut until an exit
can be made left, just before the peak of the corner. Cross over the top
to the right and up a small inside corner to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Ralph Wright, Mark Giesbrecht,
Rafael Munoz - 1989 May
The Seam A4, 55m
Climb Pitch 1 of The Mitre. Then aid up thin crack
2m to the right of the belay. After 10m of thin gear (at bolt) follow crack
to left 3m, then up shallow corner to right.
Ralph Wright, Colin Innes-Smith - 1989
The Mitre/Eastwall 5.7/A3, 60m
Begin 8m left of The Great Orc. Aid a network
of fine cracks 15m to a small overhang (bolt) and traverse left to a rising
left trending ledge. Free climb or continue on aid to the base of the large
dihedral. Belay from here or continue up a solid crack to the first overhang,
which is passed on the right. Continue up the corner to the top. Exit the
corner on the left and ascend the slab on one of two cracks to the top.
Ralph Wright - 1990 Mar
Questionable Ethics A2 (12a/TR), 28m ***
Start on the terrace by spray paint, up the thin
crack/hollow flake system to face climbing, then move towards a right-facing
flake /shallow corner system heading towards a 6m long hand and finger
crack. Excellent climbing and very sustained!
FA: (A2) Ralph Wright, Dave Waters - 1990 May,
TR: Mike Baxter - 1996 Aug
The Great Orc C2, 40m *
A challenging aid route which follows a thin vertical
to overhanging crack. Start at the foot of a small inside corner (the second
inside corner right of Great Corner). and climb the crack using clean aid
(small wires). A few free moves finish the route left of the crack to a
tree.
Peter Aitchison, Ken Lertzman - 1976 Feb 18, TR:
Mike Baxter - 1994
Ken's Revenge 5.10, 46m
A striking climb up steep corners and ledges.
Start below the corner where the cliff turns away from the road to the
right of The Great Orc.* Pitch 1, 20m: Ascend the obvious crack, traverse
left, and follow a system of left-trending cracks to the ledge just past
the thin flake.* Pitch 2, 26m: Continue to the left, then up a vertical
corner or climb the face to the right of the corner to a lower ledge.
FA: (5.7/A3) Peter Aitchison - 1975 Oct, FFA:
Geoff Murray, Trevor Down - 1978 May 20
A New Beginning 5.10, 46m
Start 10m right of Ken's Revenge. Climb left-trending
cracks to a prominent shelf below a bulging headwall. Face climb (crux,
past bolt) to a large shelf and walk 3m to the base of a steep crack. Follow
the crack to a right-trending layback and a series of corners to the top.
Doug Leonard, Peter Aitchison - 1986 Sept
Hobbit's Knees 5.6, 12m *
Follow the path that starts from the road, about
12 m right of Ken's Revenge, crosses the ditch, and winds along the base
of the large terrace. The route can be found where the path crosses water
and meets the cliff. Start in front of the bulging ledge at the bottom
of an obvious right trending crack. Ascend the overhanging cliff following
the crack to the top. This route finishes on the terrace. Two bolts found
left of the finish are used to belay.
FA: Ken Lertzman, Peter Aitchison - 1975 Feb 21,
FFA: Peter Gough - 1978
My War 5.7/A1, 12m *
Start at the right trending overhanging crack10
m right of Hobbit's Knees. Aid out the roof and above the overhang. Some
free moves can be made starting from the horizontal crack below the large
block right of the main crack and a few meters above the overhang. More
aid moves are used at the top.
Robert Hester, Jamie Collins, Cam McKenzie - 1989
Oct 9
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt
Narrows Lily
Pond Direct Lake
Legal
|
