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  Gooseneck - Main Cliff - The Rock Garden

Hugh's Horror - Alternate Start 5.9, 12m *
Start 10 m left of the chimney on the same side as Inner Limit. Climb the prominent crack through a small overhang to the top of the block. Then finish as for Hugh's Horror Direct.
Doug Leonard, Rafael Munoz - 1987

Hugh's Horror Direct 5.8, 34m ***
Chimneying, solid hand jamming, and a delicate finish. Start to the right of the outside corner right of Inner Limit, at the base of a chimney. * Pitch 1, 12m: Climb the chimney to a big ledge. * Pitch 2, 22m: Jam up the inside corner crack to the sloping arete. Stand on the sloped arete and duck left past the bolt (the horror move), then ascend the face to finish left of the juniper bush.
Peter Aitchison, Ian Clark, Richard Tilley - 1976 Apr 11

Hugh's Horror 5.7, 20m **
Shorter and easier than Hugh's Horror Direct, it starts on a ledge at the large pine to the left of No One Nose. Climb the slab and undercling crack to the left and join the direct route at the arete (the horror move).
Hugh Spencer, Peter Aitchison, Grant Stiver - 1974 June 9

No One Nose 5.6, 21m **
A delightful route named after the obvious "nose" of rock 2/3 of the way up the route. Scale the slabs and crack below the large black streak. Climb the large crack right of the black streak to finish, occasionally moving onto faces on either side of the crack.
Peter Aitchison, John McKenzie - 1973

I'm Losing You 5.9, 15m
An offwidth (take large pro) that starts 3m right of No One Nose, beneath an overhang. Climb a dirty crack to the overhang and jam up the crack to finish.
Geoff Murray - 1980 May

Richard's Reply 5.6, 15m
Climb right of I'm Losing You to the base of a broken slab. Ascend the corner on the left side of the slab and traverse left above the overhang to a ledge. Move up from the ledge trending right to finish.
Richard Tilley, Peter Aitchison - 1975 Oct

Stepomatic 5.9, 18m
Start at Richard's Reply. Climb slab and bear right beneath the overhang. Climb wall to the top of the overhang; finger traverse left, then make a delicate step into the steep dihedral, which is followed to the top.
Doug Leonard, S. Smythe - 1986

Sail Slab 5.2, 15m
Follow Richard's Reply to the base of the broken slab. Ascend the right-hand side of the slab then climb up the small gully to the top. A harder variation follows left up the steep slab 3m to finish.

Doctor Little 5.10c, 22m TR
Start left of big blocks, just left of Doctor Doo. Move up steep face to a small ledge, then follow obvious ledges.
Gerald Brandt, Rafael Munoz - 1996 Aug

Doctor Doo 5.10a, 20m TR
XXX
Gregor Brandt, Glenn Bailey - 1995 June

Durin 5.6, 21m
Starting 3m left of the dark inside corner, climb up the left wall to a good ledge. Traverse right 3m, then move up to the left to finish at the overhang.
Bottom part: Peter Aitchison, Anil Shukla, others - 1974, Full climb: Everett Fee, Doug Leonard - 1980 Sept 6

Toad-in-the-Hole 5.6, 21m
Ascend the dark inside corner about 18m right of No One Nose. The crux is in final moves. This route is often wet.
Peter Aitchison, Chris Armstrong, Bob Sanford - 1975 Sept 14

Winter's Tale 5.9, 21m *
Start to the right of Toad-in-the-Hole below a steep crack or the prominent buttress at the beginning of the overhangs. Climb the crack to a ledge (mantle shelf). Finish up a hand crack.
Doug Leonard, Rafael Munoz - 1988 Oct

El Bruto 5.10c, 22m
Start 2m left of Dreams of B.L. and the Beach, 8m left of The End. Go up prominent corner, following crack to roof, traverse left (no feet) and mantle onto terrace. Follow weathered crack, over two small roofs. Exit trending left.
TR: Rafael Munoz - 1996 July, FFA: Rafael Munoz, Gregor Brandt - 1999 June 25

Dreams of B.L. and the Beach 5.9, 27m **
Start right of Toad-in-the-Hole at a large inside corner. Climb up the vertical hand/finger crack to a large ledge on the right. Ascend a loose column to a narrow, awkward ledge. Move left to an inside corner and up the left wall and go around an outside corner onto a small steep slab. Climb up to a small oveerhang with a flat bottom and move slightly left up a steep wall to a juggy ledge. Finish on a big ledge with a tree.
Casey Shaw, Peter Aitchison - 1984 Apr 10

The End 5.10b, 24m *
Start at the bottom left hand side of the large flat-topped block at the beginning of Dreams of B.L. and the Beach. Ascend the vertical hand/finger crack to the large ledge. Move to the right 3m and climb straight up the overhanging bulge past bolts. Continue straight up through the crux to the top (chains).
Doug Orr, Mike Baxter - 1991 Apr 6

The Rubble Variation 5.10b, R 24m TR *
An alternate and more sustained start to The End. Begin in the large dark inside corner (sometimes wet) to the right of the block. Traverse up and left to an outside corner. Ascend the overhanging arete to top of The End.
Doug Orr, Nelson Klason - 1990 July

The Terminus 5.11a, 25m TR **
Start as for The End. From the third bolt, move right into the shallow corner. Then move up and right through the overhang onto the slab, following a crack.
Dave Kennefick, Bob Grabowski - 1997 May

Pinnacle Overhang 5.4, 30m ***
A superb route with moderate climbing and great exposure. Start anywhere within 2m of the outside corner that is to the right of the big overhang. Climb up the ledges to the terrace. Move left onto the top of the pinnacle and step above the overhang. Traverse left, moving along the top of the overhang 10m then climb up the face to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Brian Metcalf, Bev Parslow - 1972 Oct 8

Pinnacle Overhang Direct 5.11, 20m
Start as for Pinnacle to the terrace. Climb up past bolt through the overhang to next big ledge. Finish as for Pinnacle Plus.
Robert Hester - 1994 May

Pinnacle Perfection 5.8, 23m *
An alternate second half finish for Pinnacle. From the ledge above the pinnacle, ascend the face past the bolt, left of the outside corner.
Robert Hester - 1991 Sept 7

Pinnacle Plus 5.8, 23m **
Another alternate finish. From the ledge above the pinnacle ascend the crack/face right of the outside corner to the sloping left trending ledge. Move left onto the corner then left onto a bulge. Climb straight up through the cracks to finish.
Robert Hester, Cam McKenzie - 1989 Sept 17



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