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Gooseneck -
South Cliff
South Cliff is located on the south shore of Gooseneck
Lake, directly south of the Main Cliff (see Map
of Gooseneck Rocks).. It may be accessed from a canoe but can also
be approached on foot. To do so, drive 1.2 km down Cygnet Lake Road and
park on the right. Hike 10 minutes north through the bush along a well-defined
trail to the top of the western section of the cliff. South Cliff is divided
into an eastern section and a western section, with a broken area in the
middle through which an exit route winds.
Eastern Section
Colonized Planet 5 - Shikasta 5.7, 24m *
Start under the wide chimney at the far end of
the cliff. Climb the chimney to the large ledge. Ascend the right side
of the prominent flake, then move onto the face to the undercling.
Robert France, Peter Aitchison - 1982 July 26
Falling Stones XXX?
Mark Giesbrecht?
Falling Stars 5.10, 24m *
Located on the first right facing corner on the
left end of the cliff. Ascend through the short overhang to the ledge.
Climb the corner and face before regaining the crack near the top. Exit
to the left onto large ledges.
FA: (5.9/A1) Peter Aitchison, Robert France -
1981 Aug 19, FFA: Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht - 1988
Deception Corner 5.6, 18m *
Ascend the prominent sloping dihedral just left
of where the cliff moves back from the water.
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Garry Yamashita
- 1980 May
Lazy Layaway 5.7, 12m
Start at the right facing corner 10m left of Deception
Corner. Ascend the crack to the top.
Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1981 Aug 19
Picnic at Hanging Rock 5.10aXXX?, 24m
Ascend a short corner 10m right of Deception Corner
to a ledge. Move left around a series of corners to the arete underneath
the overhang. Bridge under the overhanging crux and ascend the crack to
finish.
FA:(5.8/C3) Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1982
Aug, FFA: Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht - 1989
Opening Shot 5.6, 21m
Start left of the large triangular overhang. Climb
the face on the grey wall, then traverse left to the ledge. Ascend the
corner to the top.
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Garry Yamashita
- 1980 May
Slow Rain Coming 5.9, 24m
The corner left of Nice Route; move left and up
to the top (crux).
Peter Aitchison, Tibor Bodi, Rafael Munoz - 1986
Nice Route 5.6, 18m
Start just right of the big triangular overhang
at a block bridging the gap between the face and the flatter ground. Ascend
3m then traverse right 3m and move up to a big ledge. Climb the prominent
crack splitting the cliff to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Gary Yamashita
- 1980 May
Route Name? (XXX?) 5.8, 9m
Start at the extreme right end of this section
at the prominent corner.
Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht, Peter Aitchison
- 1988 Aug 15
Western Section
Crevasse 5.7, 37m
Start below the prominent block projecting from
the crack at the left end of this cliff section. * Pitch 1, XXm: Ascend
the large crack and block then traverse the large crevasse. * Pitch 2,
XXm: Climb the chimney above to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz - 1986
Skinnee Chimney 5.7, 21m **
Start below the prominent narrow chimney, 15m
left of Reflection Corner. Ascend the crack-chimney-crack system to the
top.
Richard Tilley, Robert France, Peter Aitchison
- 1980 July 13
Captain Granitic and the Piezo-Electric Kid
5.10a, 30m ***
Start below the highest point on the cliff, 3m
left of Reflection Corner. * Pitch 1, 20m: Ascend the narrow crack in the
left facing corner. Traverse left under the prominent overhang to the large
ledge. * Pitch 2, 10m: Ascend the crack to finish.
FA: (5.7/A3) Casey Shaw, Robert France - 1982
Oct, FFA: Peter Aitchison, Robert France - 1985
Commander Carrot and the Vigorous Young Sprouts
5.10a, 31m ***
Start as for Captain Granitic. * Pitch 1, 20m:
Ascend the narrow crack in the left facing corner to the ledge. * Pitch
2, 11m: Ascend the "S" crack and hand traverse to right, over a large ledge,
to the top.
Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Ralph Wright -
1993 June
Reflection Corner 5.8, 24m ***
Start at the inside corner right of the Captains,
below the highest point of the cliff. Ascend the corner, first trending
left, then trending right to avoid the steep wall near the top.
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley - 1975 June
Reflect Glory 5.8, 24m
Start as for Reflection Corner, but move right
and climb straight up some corners and cracks to rejoin Reflection Corner
near the top.
Peter Aitchison, Rafael Munoz, Mark Giesbrecht,
Mike Nahir - 1988
Baby Mitre 5.11a, 25m R
Ascend face 5m right of Reflection Corner past
a bolt to a large ledge. Continue up a flaring dihedral (runout) past second
bolt, then exit via an overhanging hand and finger crack. (Better on TR
than on lead!)
FA: Ralph Wright - 1992 Aug, FFA: Mike Baxter
- 1994 July
The Swimmer 5.6, 18m
Start at the inside corner 8m left of Redemption.
Ascend the corner to a terrace then ascend another corner to finish.
Everett Fee, Casey Shaw, Dick Erkaw - 1980 July
13
Temptation 5.8, 21m
Start below a short crack under the roof 5m left
of Redemption. Climb the crack and move left to a narrow ledge. Follow
the crack below the bulge then traverse right onto the wall. Finish up
the short inside corner shared with Redemption.
Doug Leonard, Peter Aitchison, Dan Price - 1983
Aug
Redemption 5.6, 21m *
Start beneath a crack on the right side of the
large flake. Ascend the crack, move left across the top of the flake, then
up the short corner shared with Temptation to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Anil Shukla - 1975 June
Lumber Shirts and Ties 5.10, 13m TR
This route shares the same start as Redemption?,
following a direct line of cracks, roofs(crux) and short slab to the right.
Finish on a thin crack on face.
Rafael Munoz, Gregor Brandt, Janice Liwanag -
19XX
Ain't No Princesses Here 5.9, 13m TR
Same start as Lumber Shirts and Ties, but instead
of following the ramp right, climb the vertical face directly in front.
Gregor Brandt, Janice Liwanag, Rafael Munoz 1999
Aug 15
Green Team 5.8, 24m ***
Start at the right-facing corner 3m right of Redemption.
Ascend the corner and traverse right near the top.
Everett Fee, Robert France, Peter Aitchison, Richard
Tilley, Casey Shaw - 1980 July 13
Green Team - Direct Finish 5.9, 24m ***
Start as for standard route. At the top of the
corner, finish over the overhanging bulge.
Doug Leonard, S. Smythe - 1986 Aug
Roofroof 5.8, 21m *
Ascend the largest corner towards the right end
of the cliff. Circumvent the overhang on the right to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Richard Tilley, Robert France
- 1979 Sept
Lightning Bolt 5.8, 18m *
Traverse right from the base of Roofroof along
the vegetation to the corner start. Climb up and right past three overhangs
to finish.
Peter Aitchison, Doug Leonard - 1982 May 2
Gunwale 5.4, 9m
This route is accessed from the water or from
a tricky rappel. Ascend the right-trending corner near the right end of
the cliff.
Richard Tilley, Liz Lugenbuhl - 1975 June
Odd Angles and a Shade of Doubt 5.10b/c, 8m
Extreme western end of cliff. This route starts
from a small ledge 20cm above the level of the water in the summer. Must
rappel to ledge to start on a hanging belay. Follow layback crack for 4m
(crux) to marginal sloping ledge. Face crack climb to top.
TR: Gregor Brandt, Rafael Munoz -1997 July, FFA:
Rafael Munoz, Janice Liwanag, Gregor Brandt - 1999 Aug 8
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt
Narrows Lily
Pond Direct Lake
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