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Roadside
This cliff is conveniently located alongside the
Trans-Canada Highway bypass just north of Kenora. More precisely, it is
4.2km east of the only stop light on the bypass, where P.R.#658, the road
from Kenora to Redditt, intersects the bypass. At 200km from Winnipeg,
Roadside is the closest major cliff to the city.
* The cliff is on the north side of the highway
and faces southeast. Access the top of the cliff via a path that starts
at the highway, or follow a path along the bottom by down-climbing from
the road. * Note that the cliff is on private land and bolts are not allowed;
climbs that cannot otherwise be protected are top roped.
* Routes are described from left to right when
facing the cliff (closest to the road to farthest).
* There are two exit routes (of sort): the Pine
Tree Exit Route (PTER) is a right-trending ramp with three noticeable pine
trees about 45m from the road; Charlotte's Exit Route (CER), not that easy
at about 5.3, is a major right-trending line starting at the right end
of a large face about 235m from the road.
Guacamole 5.7, 13m
Starts immediately left of the Pine Tree Exit
Route (PTER), about 45m from the road. Ascend easy ground to start of crack/left
facing corner. Face and crack climbing.
Rafael Munoz, Glenn Bailey, Gregor Brandt - 1999
June 15
Refried Beans 5.6, 10m
35m from start of trail. Follow a left trending
crack starting at a small right facing corner. Climb crack to small roof
to end.
Gregor Brandt, Glenn Bailey, Rafael Munoz - 1999
June 15
Quesadillas 5.7, 10m
Two meters right of Refried Beans. Ascend left
facing flake to large ledge. Follow right trending crack to the top.
Rafael Munoz, Glenn Bailey, Gregor Brandt - 1999
June 15
Cuarenta 5.10a, 9m
Starts about 8m right of the major overhangs,
or 39m right of PTER. Start below big inverted V feature, crack on left
side to sloping ledge, climb over bulge and up through slot to finish.
Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison - 1999 May 2
Double Jeopardy 5.10, 12m
Starts about 10m right of the first major overhang
(lots of loose rubble beneath), or 39m right of PTER. Follow twin parallel-sided
cracks to a ledge, then face climb to the top.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen - 1993 Aug
Terminator 5.10d, 11m TR
Starts 10m to the right of Double Jeopardy, 3m
left of Snakeskin Crack. Face climb to a bush, then trend left past a small
overhanging roof.
Jake Klassen - 1991 Oct
First Blood 5.10a, 12m TR **
Starts just right of Terminator. Climb various
cracks and the face past a sickle-shaped scoop just to the left of an outside
corner between Terminator and Snakeskin Crack.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Everett Fee, Doug
Leonard - 1994 Sept 18
Snakeskin Crack 5.8, 12m
At the start of the first big face (approximately
50m right of PTER) is a big ledge half way up the cliff with lots of junipers.
Follow a crack and then the right-facing overhanging corner at the left
end of this ledge.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen - 1991 Aug 31
Scooby Do 5.7+, 18m **
Follows the thin crack on the face about 5m right
of Snakeskin Crack that ends at a large overhanging tree.
TR: Cindy Klassen, Jake Klassen - 1992 Sept, FFA:
Rafael Munoz, Conrad Hoeppner - 1993 Aug
Yon Ju 5.10b, 18m
Starts about 3m right of Scooby Doo. Ascend to
overhang about 4m from ground, climb right and up over overhang (crux)
and trend left along prominent ledges above. Ascend left trending crack
above (crux).
Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison - 1999 May 14
Scooby-Snacks 5.10, 18m *
Located right of Scooby Do in an alcove. Follow
the left-facing corner.
TR: Lesandra Dobson, Rafael Munoz - 1992 Sept,
FFA: Tibor Bodi, Doug Reimer, Jason Pronyk, Gary Monkman - 1994 June 15
Do the Right Thing 5.8, 18m
Start as per Scooby Snacks to the start of the
left facing corner. Climb out to the right and up on to face.
TR: Rafael Munoz - 1999 May 10, FFA: Rafael Munoz,
Gerald Brandt, Gregor Brandt - 1999 July
eM.D 5.10b, 18m TR
1m right of Scooby Snacks. Climb face to small
overhang, move right to end of roof, and climb face to finish.
Rafael Munoz - 1999 May 10
Back to School 5.5, 18m *
At the right end of the first big face and 7m
right of Scooby-Do is a corner that leads to a chimney behind a large flake.
At the top of the chimney go left on a ledge and finish up the crack (crux).
Cindy Klassen, Steve Young, Jake Klassen - 1991
Aug 31
Don't Count Me Out 5.8, 9m
Start about 9m left of Greek Salad. Follow right
trending ramp up to small roof. Climb to right of roof to corner above.
Rafael Munoz, Peter Aitchison - 1999 May 14
Teacher's Pet 5.7, 18m
Starts after a long, low broken stretch of cliff,
7m left of Greek Salad. Follow a right facing corner to a large ledge.
Finish up the right-facing corner at the back of the ledge.
Cindy Klassen, Steve Young - 1993 Sept
With Croutons 5.10c, 10m
Climb left facing corner/chimney, as per Greek
Salad, move left to left trending thin crack to small roof, climb crack
above to ledge.
TR: Gregor Brandt, Gerald Brandt, Garth Irwin,
Gord Zubrecki - 1997 Aug, FFA: Rafael Munoz, Garth Irwin - 1999 May 29
Greek Salad 5.6, 18m *
Starts about 60m right of Back to School, after
a long, low broken stretch of cliff. This route follows a left-facing corner/chimney
that leads to a left-trending crack and corner.
Steve Young, Cindy Klassen - 1991 Sept 1
Aar-Be-Dar 5.7, 18m *
Overcome the large bulge just right of Greek Salad
to gain a ledge; follow the left-trending crack to the top.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Steve Young - 1991
Sept 1
Tiptoe Through The Tulips 5.7, 18m
Located 26m right of Greek Salad. Climb the right
side of a flake to a ledge. Move left along the ledge, then up and trend
back right into the bulging crack to another ledge. Finish up the left
crack.
Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen - 1991
July 28
Knackers Wear High-Techs 5.9, 12m
The obvious left-trending diagonal crack that
begins on a ledge part way up the cliff, about 4m right of Tiptoe Through
The Tulips.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen, Steve Young - 1993
Sept
XL 5.10a, 18m
20m right of Knackers Wear High-Techs which is
the obvious left trending shallow ramp. Follow crack system to ledge, climb
shallow right facing corner, continue up high to right trending arc, straight
to top.
Rafael Munoz, Gregor Brandt - 1999 June 4
Beam Me Up Scotty 5.10b, 21m ***
Starts about 58m to the right of Greek Salad and
16m right of Charlotte's Exit Route (CER), at a right trending crack system
in the middle of the big face. After a bouldery beginning, follow the crack
to a roof at 2/3 of the cliff height. Traverse right around a bulge to
a ledge. The well-protected right-facing corner above is the crux (small
fingers help)!
TR: Rob Hester 1991 Sept, FFA: Rafael Munoz, Lesandra
Dodson - 1992 Sept
High Cost of Livin 5.10b/c, 22m
This route shares the start with Beam Me Up Scotty.
Starts about 58m to the right of Greek Salad and 16m right of CER, at a
right trending crack system in the middle of the big face. After a bouldery
beginning, follow the crack to a roof at 2/3 of the cliff height. Traverse
left approx. 3m along a small foot ledge to a prominent thin flake. Climb
the thinly protected crack (crux) to the top.
Rafael Munoz, Gerald Brandt, Gregor Brandt - 1999
June 26
LGD 5.10d, 18m TR
55m right of Beam Me Up Scotty. Climb easy ground
to small ledge half way up the face. Climb left-facing corner to thin crack
above (crux).
Gregor Brandt, Rafael Munoz, Gerald Brandt - 1999
Sept 15
Stepping Stone 5.10, 21m TR **
Start at the right end of a boulder field 60m
to the right of Beam Me Up Scotty. Climb the corner just right of a big
overhang to a smaller overhang. Traverse right around the large boulder,
then continue up the corner to a large ledge. Step up on the stepping stone,
climb the face and follow the crack system to the top.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen - 1992 June 21
Tag Team 5.10a, 9m
Follow the crack about 10m right of Stepping Stone.
Rob Hester, Doug Orr - 1991 Sept 18
Cooper's Ecstasy 5.9+, 24m ***
Located about 145m from CER. Unusually varied
and sustained, this climb starts below a huge flake whose bottom forms
an impressive overhang about 2m off the ground. Undercling the flake (6"pro)
and follow the crack (more 6"pro) to a stance beneath a smaller overhanging
flake. Undercling this flake, then lieback up its right side to finish.
Jake Klassen, Ralph Wright - 1991 Sept 1
White Fever 5.10d, 22m TR **
Start where a huge ledge 3m off the ground meets
Raspberry Jam. Go up the corner 2m, then trend left on a steep ramp to
the face below a small but prominent right-facing inside corner, about
3m left of Raspberry Jam. Climb past the corner to wide ledges. Continue
up and right until standing on a very fragile-looking flake (!) 3m below
the top. You are at the crux.
Everett Fee, Kathy Kalinowsky, Ken Boyko, Glenn
Bailey - 1996 Sept 15
Raspberry Jam 5.8, 26m ***
The beautiful inside corner on the main wall clearly
noticeable from the highway, 10m right of Cooper's Ecstasy. Climb past
two ledges to gain the corner. The crux is a 5m crack near the top, which
can either be jammed or liebacked. (At the base of the climb are a cross
and mementos left in memory of a Kenora youth who committed suicide here
- don't disturb).
Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen - 1991
July 28
Slim Pickins 5.11, 28m TR ***
Satisfying face climb 2m right of Raspberry Jam.
The challenging start is height dependent - tall climbers start straight
up, shorter folks start 3m right of the corner and hand traverse left along
seam. Tendonitis cruxes at the start and finish are 5.11, with small distinct
edges in between at 5.10. Two narrow ledges allow re-energizing.
Ken Boyko, Kathy Kalinowsky - 1994 Oct 22
Terminator 2 5.10, 21m TR
Start 5m right of Raspberry Jam (about 1/3 of
the way up the big right-trending ramp). Climb the face and trend left
to a ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a large crack. Climb the crack
then trend back right and climb the face and crack to the top.
Jake Klassen - 1992 July 13
Oh! Bother 5.6, 22m *
To the right of Terminator 2 a cracked face sticks
out at a right angle. Further right an overhung recessed area of dubious
rock is reached. This climb follows the left side of this recess. Climb
the cracked rock to a tree, continue up over huge loose blocks to the top
of a pinnacle, then step up and right through a gorse bush onto more wobbly
rock. Move up the ledge and exit via the chimney.
Steve Young, Peter Muir - 1994, Sept 10
Last of the Summer's Whine 5.6, 19m
A dirty, blocky corner about 40m right of Raspberry
Jam where the cliff is about to turn north again.
XXX, XXX - XXX
Half-Moon 5.10b, 21m **
Start about 52m right Raspberry Jam in a large,
clean alcove. Move between two flakes and a right leaning block to a ledge.
Climb the face and corner (crux) to a half-moon shaped flake. Climb the
right of the flake to a tiny ledge. Traverse left around the bulge above
then up the face and crack to finish.
TR: Jake Klassen - 1992 Aug 16, FFA: Rafael Munoz,
Garth Irwin, Kathy Kalinowsky - 1999 June 28
Half-Moon Variation 5.8, 21m TR
An easier variation traverses right into Mosquito
Heaven, then back to the half moon to avoid the crux.
Steve Young, Cindy Klassen - 1992 Aug 16
Mosquito Heaven 5.8, 17m ***
Start on the right corner of the alcove. Lieback
and stem to the ledge (crux). Move through a bulge and up to the corner
to a ledge with junipers. Move left onto the face and finish to a large
tree.
TR: Cindy Klassen, Jake Klassen - 1992 July 13,
FFA: Cindy Klassen - 1992 Oct
Hold the Mushrooms 5.7, 15m *
Start in the alcove around the arete from Mosquito
Heaven, 60 m right of Raspberry Jam. Climb the corner to the ledge (crux)
and go either to the right or left of a block. Continue up the corner to
a large tree.
Steve Young, Cindy Klassen - 1992 July 13
Frog Follies 5.8, 15m ***
Starts 20m right of Hold the Mushrooms. Move up
a flake to a small roof about 3m off the ground. Traverse right and up
to the ledge. Traverse right again and follow pockets and flakes to a large
juniper. The route is overhanging but the holds are large.
TR: Jake Klassen, Steve Young, Cindy Klassen -
1992 Aug 16, FFA: Dave Harrison - 1992 Oct
Another Roadside Attraction 5.10, 19m
Starts 8m from Frog Follies. Climb the broken
corner to a flake wedged into the corner. Climb the left side of the face
to the top of the wedge. Follow the blocky corner to the top.
Mike Baxter, Sue Baker - 19XX
Ortifay 5.10c, 17m
About 3m right of Another Roadside Attraction.
Follow right facing corner (crux) for about 8m to ledge , move left to
easier ground, climb to top.
Rafael Munoz, Garth Irwin - 1999 Aug 3
Electric Jello 5.10, 17m TR *
Starts 20m right of Frog Follies at a dark corner
next to two large trees. Climb the boulder, then lieback the corner to
a small ledge. Traverse left and face climb to finish. It may be possible
to climb the black corner.
Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen - 1992 July 14
Syrah 97 5.10b, TR
About 7m right of Electric Jello. Ascend left
facing corner with diagonal crack on right face, follow thin corner crack
for about 6m (crux) to ledge. Follow crack system to top.
Rafael Munoz, Christie Thorsteinson - 1999 Sept
22
Jigsaw 5.7, 17m *
Follows a left-facing corner about 13m right of
Electric Jello. Detour right at the blank section in the middle, then back
into the corner to finish.
TR: Jake Klassen, Cindy Klassen - 19XX, FFA: Everett
Fee, Lucille Doucette - 1994 Oct 2
Intro
Gooseneck Jones
Roadside Panorama
ELA Redditt
Narrows Lily
Pond Direct Lake
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